Hello again, Nick's turn on this one. Right now we are at the library in Missoula, MT. The scenery has changed dramatically and we are very excited and awed by the Rockies. We've had nearly as many days off as bicycling days, but regardless, let the daily summaries begin:
Day 37:
The rain was relentless on our first day of "vacation from vacation". We splurged on a rental car and actually made 2 trips to the B&B from the Super 8 to drop off our stuff, including loading our bikes into the trunk. No bike riding in the rain on this vacation!
Had a monster lunch at an all you can eat Mongolian BBQ - they definitely lost money on us. From there went to the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, which was amazing and the best we have seen on the trail. They even had a full scale replica of the portage Lewis, Clark, and the Corps of Discovery made around the Great Falls of the Missouri. When the going gets hard we remind ourselves that we could be them and it would be much harder and yet they did it with no complaints. We then drove to the various waterfalls in the area, which normally are a trickle because of the various dams, but since every dam was over capacity they were roaring! Then time for more food, and microbrews! I love Montana.
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The portage replica |
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Molly P and Clark go west. Nice threads! |
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Black Eagle Falls |
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The Great Falls |
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Geese Crossing |
Day 38: Finally a beautiful day - mid 80s, sunny, no humidity. Had a nice breakfast at B&B, where we have become little celebrities, and then each had a one-hour massage. Thanks Eric and Nicole again for the gift certificate - it was amazing! The last time I had a massage was a over a year ago, and interestingly enough I was actually more stiff and sore last time, presumably from sitting on my butt all the time.
We took the car about 90 mi south of Great Falls to Gates of the Mountains, where we hopped on a 2 hour boat cruise through an isolated canyon. It was absolutely stunning, made all that much better by the wonderful weather. While Lewis and Clark floated the Missouri river, we have been following the trail for over 2,000 miles on land, so it was pretty cool to actually be on the water and see exactly what they saw.
We then drove another 25 mi or so down to Helena (cars are amazing!) where we partook in more food and microbrews. I love Montana! Helena is actually a very cool city, my favorite thus far in Montana, barely edging out Missoula.
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Collins Mansion Bed and Breakfast |
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Marmalade, the owner |
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Goodbye Prairies! |
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Vacation! |
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Gates of the Rocky Mountains | | | |
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Butte Sunset |
Day 39: We semi-grudingly decided to get back on our bikes, reminding ourselves that we chose to do this trip for pleasure. Actually it was another very nice day, and we had a gently rolling ride to the tiny town of Simms, MT. This was the last stop for the next 55 mi, and with the continental divide about 30 mi away from Simms, we didn't want to do a monster day. The only option was camping behind a gas station, which wasn't as bad as it sounds, and spent most of the afternoon lounging in the sun and reading new books which we picked up in Great Falls.
Earlier in the day we met a pair fellow adventure cyclists - Steve and Dodie. They were riding from their hometown of Victoria, BC on Vancouver Island to Montreal, with a detour through the Rockies to visit their daughter and grandchildren in Missoula and were now heading northeast and were about a weeks time from crossing back into Canada. They were extremely nice, and we talked for quite a while on the side of the road, comparing our notes on where we had come from and their notes on where we were going. You can check out their blog at http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=RrzKj&doc_id=8357&v=SE
Good luck Grampies - we have been following your blog since we met you! And get well Dodie (she's come down with the flu)! You are almost back to the realm of Canadian universal healthcare. I'm sorry for the poor and expensive state of our healthcare system!
(Crazyguyonabike.com is a bicycle journal site, which we might have used rather than this one, had we known of its existence. It is quite resourceful, and we have checked a few times for journals of those who have preceeded us for helpful tips and advice).
Steve and Dodie were the fourth fellow cycle-tourists that we have met thus far on this trip, all of them heading east. Turns out traveling west to east is better for the wind, but of course that would have not made much sense for us given our circumstances.
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Grampies on the Go! |
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Home for a night |
Day 40: The Ascent*
The forecast was calling for afternoon thunderstorms, some severe, so we set the alarm for 4 AM so that we could climb the continental divide before any inclement weather came through. A passing thunderstorm woke us around 345 before the alarm even went off. It passed through quickly and was mostly harmless, although now that meant I had to carry a wet tent today. And wet tents are heavy, so not the best start for an all day climb.
However it was quite surreal to bicycle through Rocky mountain foothills as the sun was rising. There was zero traffic and it was very peaceful and quiet. After about 30 mi of some not so gentle foothills, we began our climb. It was immensely beautiful and only the last 5 miles were really "granny-gear" steep, with some long switchbacks. Our system is slow bicycling, with rhythmic, labor-like breathing and taking a quick 3 minute rest every 20 min (any longer and you just get too cold and stiff). Climbing hills is actually meditative - you are 100% focused on breathing and the next 10 yards ahead - and nothing else. At first I never understood why major cyclists intentionally seek out rides with hills, but now it makes a little more sense.
We made it to the top in great spirits. Euphoria, high fives and pictures ensued. Then we were off to enjoy the fruits of our labor - downhill! We coasted 20 mi or so down to Lincoln MT, only stopping to take in the scenery and to admire some passing bald eagles.
Lincoln is a classic alpine town with log cabins, some pubs, and very nice people. We stayed at the 3 Bears motel, as the rain was picking up. The hosts were great people, and we talked for nearly an hour, as they were showing off a hiker and bicycler bunk house they are building. Ended the day with burgers and microbrews. Did I mention I love Montana?
*Full Disclosure: The Ascent was made easier by the use of Performance Enhancing Drugs: 5-Hour Energy Drink. Hopefully this will not tarnish this day, at least it wasn't Testosterone-shots or a blood transfusion.
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The foothills |
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The middle of ascent |
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Nearing the top! |
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Jubilation! |
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First pass - check! 2 more to go |
Day 41: Non-stop rain all day = unplanned day off. Lounged around and went to the Forest Service HQ to look at a small display on the area Grizzly bears. I sure hope we see one... from a distance. Also the Bob Marshall wilderness is nearby, which is supposed to have prime backpacking, some say better than Glacier National Park. Next summer or summer 2013? Who's coming with me?
Day 42: More rain. Cold rain to-boot (low 40s). I hear you guys are having a major heatwave back east. Let's meet halfway on this or something and we'll all feel better. Did the "wear everything we have" routine and hit the road. Good news is that the day was either flat or downhill with only a few tiny climbs. By 11 we were completely saturated and freezing, when we came into the tiny outpost of Ovando, where we found a cafe with delicious coffee, warm soup and fresh sammies. We each drank about a gallon of coffee while puddles formed below us on their hardwood floor. Sorry guys!
The rain was letting up, and about 10 mi from lunch my tire was hissing - I had a flat. Remarkably this was our first flat on the trip, most people typically have had at least 3 by now. And it was only a matter of time anyway, my rear tire was almost entirely worn through. We remembered our bike class and replaced both the tube and went ahead and replaced the entire tire with a spare we brought. Here's hoping that bad boy holds up, as we are embarrassingly novices at bicycle maintenance.
Camped that night at a national forest for free under a picnic pavilion to keep dry. Ponderosa pine all around, the smells were amazing.
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Rainy yet beautiful start |
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Molly is cruising! |
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Still raining |
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Lunch and shelter! |
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Still raining... |
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Stopped raining, but a flat tire! |
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I knew it was only a matter of time. The tire tread after 2,000 mi was beginning to wear through |
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Home-base |
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Chuck, the wise mountain horse |
Day 43: Guess what?! It's raining! The past 72 hours have nearly matched the average monthly rainfall amount for western Montana, so I guess that means we have 27 rain-free days ahead! No worries though, it's actually bothering us less and less. Rode 30 mi to the great city of Missoula. The ride was breathtaking, almost entirely downhill through a steep canyon. The Blackfoot river was raging like many locals have never seen. We were so mesmerized by the beauty that the rain was a second thought and before we knew it we were in town.
Got a hotel which would definitely qualify as budget. After doing some laundry we hit the town, which has over 5 local micro-breweries, and we made a spirited attempt to go to all of them. I love Montana! It was the latest night of the trip thus far - we were out until nearly 11.
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Getting used to this rain |
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weeeeee! |
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Microbrews. I love Montana! |
Day 44: Today, day off in Missoula. At library updating this here blog while Molly is applying for prospective Bay Area jobs. Any Bay Area readers out there who can hook a girl up?! Went by the bike shop on the suspicion that our chains were past due for replacement. They are - way past due. So bad that we have irrepairably messed up both our gears, $200 each to fix. However we decided, in agreement with the mechanic that maybe the easiest thing is just keep on trucking until the trip is over. We can't really make them any worse, and the only downside is they won't ride as smooth as they should. We have a feeling that's been the case for a while and we've done fine thus far, plus we're not Lance Armstronging it out there, we look more like the Grizzwalds with a grandma on the roof of our station wagon. But we shall see - 2 more major climbs in the next 5 days (Bitterroot Mtns up next) Next day off should be in Idaho or Washington with the final stretch ahead. Hope everyone is enjoying your summer!!!