Day 25: Since we have been "banking extra miles" as we call it by doing longer than average days (we figured we need to average 50-60 mi a day, where as we have been recently doing 70-90 mi days) we took a second day off! The weather was still pretty sour, and 48 hrs off from cycling helped fix those sore muslces and joints, and made us stronger I think. We went to the North Dakota State Heritage Museum, which was fascinating, and free! By the end of the day however, we were already getting the itch to hit the road again. After being on the move all the time, it actually feels odd to not be going anywhere. At least that's how I feel - Molly sure seems to enjoy the relaxing.
Day 26: Hit the road early and had a very nice ride along the Bismarck river park and bike trail. No illegal trespassing on road construction this time! Bismarck is a pretty cool city, definitely lots of sprawl, but also lots of bicycle paths and lanes. It became rural very quickly, and we fought a light headwind for the majority of the day. We road about 70 mi and camped at East Totten Recreation Area, right on the shores of Lake Audubon. There was a group fishing near the campsite, which was no big deal, until after we set up camp nearby, at which point they started blaring car radios with the latest rap hits. They kept playing this one song over and over which goes "Make it rain trick, gunna make it rain b**ch" or something like that. Camping in rural North Dakota, just like I pictured it...
Throughout the day we kept skirting rain showers, but for the most part stayed dry. This is Big Sky territory , because you can see for 50 miles in every direction - which is mixed blessing with the weather - since you can see a storm coming from far away, but it also give you the impression you are about to get rained on, when actually the storm is 15 miles away or more, and you never even get a sprinkle.
Day 27: Took a peak out of the tent this morning to check on the rain. The rain clouds looked like they were on top of us, and today they really were. It rained until about 10 AM, so we just hung out in the tent and read until the rain dissipated. We hit the road, and had a decent tailwind, so we felt pretty good. We didn't see many cars on the road today, and were making good time, until the rain clouds caught up with us again. We decided to call it a day around mile 50 - there was a ranch near the lake which rents out trailers and let us set up camp under a pine tree to get some cover from the rain.
We asked the owner, "who rents the trailers?" He responded that usually they are vacationing fishermen, but that because of an enormous gas and oil boom in North Dakota, which has erupted the past 3 years, it was all drilling workers. He went on to say that our planned route over the next few days (which was mapped out 8 years ago) is miserable and dangerous - extremely heavy truck traffic (big 18-wheelers with oversized loads of drilling equipment, excavated soils and tankers) as well as extremely deteriorated roads, with very little options of avoiding them, since we had just bicycled into the heart of drilling country, and we'd need to backtrack 2-3 days to catch an alternate route.
It made for a very worrisome and sleepless night. What to do!?! Add to that we have been having some pretty gnarly tummy grumbles, Molly having "grumbles-plus". We think it's from the local well water we drank at the last campsite. The weather has also become cold rainy and windy. Harumph!
Day 28: It was even colder and rainier in the morning. Despite still not feeling well, we decided to get out of this spot and ride 15 mi into the wind and rain to the next town, Parshall ND, the gateway to drilling country and figure it out from there. Maybe we'd just get a hotel and rest there for the day.
Turns out every hotel in a 100 mi radius is booked out for workers. As we rode through Parshall looking rather miserable and cold and a little scared a pickup truck pulled up to talk to us. Harry, a local pipeline worker told us that our upcoming route was a "death trap". We asked if he could drive us about 40 mi north of our planned route up to better roads with a wide shoulder and 2 lanes of westbound traffic ( much better for passing traffic ). He said he's working but would make some calls. He gave us his number and we hung out at the local gas station warming up.
10 min later Harry pulled up, and said he'd drive us. Being a mountain biker he knew the bind we were in. God Bless You Harry! We drove on back gravel roads so that he could avoid getting caught by any supervisors (although we had a well rehearsed semi-fake alibi that Molly was sick and he, being a Good Samaritan, was taking us to a doctor). He also gave us an awesome tour, showing us oil and gas drills, explained how it works, local history, and showed us some still operational cold war era nuke missile silos ready to go at the push of a button. We didn't take any pictures, we'd like stay off any no-fly lists.
After getting dropped off on US-2 near Stanley ND we biked another 10 mi and found an RV park. There weren't any spots left, the place was full of trucks, trailers and mud, but the owner let us set up camp in a patch of grass near their house. Emotionally and physically exhausted we went to bed before the sun set. Just like I pictured it...
Our little patch of grass amongst the big oil and gas boys |
Big Trucks! |
Prairie Dog! |
Day 29: We were ready to get out of this oil and gas country as fast as possible. Woke up a little grumpy, but things were better quickly. The owner gave us a breakfast of coffee, muffins and bananas (this and camping were free) and while eating saw a prairie dog! We hit the road with a light tailwind and it was flat and we wanted to get far. After getting through the biggest city in the area, Williston, which with the trucks was more intimidating than NYC, even though NYC is 533 times bigger, we finally made it to quieter roads. After 95 miles for the day, made it to Bainsville MT, a tiny town about 20 mi west of the Montana border. Montana was immediately more scenic, and full of mosquitoes (there is standing water everywhere - more on that later). We camped for free in a nice little city park and used the volunteer fire departments facilities for a restroom. Good to be back on the open road.
Drilling site. |
Iron Woman! |
These mosquitoes are horrible! |
Camping in the city park of Bainsville (pop: 208) |
Grain elevator at train station. You see them in every town along the High-Line. |
Day 30: Today we had a very nice ride with a strong tailwind to Wolf Point, MT. We rode 70 mi but were in town by 2 pm. We were due for a hotel and needed to do some laundry. We strolled around town as the rain rolled in and continued through the night (hotel was a good choice). Had some McDonalds (molly's favorite guilty pleasure) and then found a tiny microbrewery (nicks favorite guilty pleasure) run by the local doctor called DocZ's. A very good day!
The bicycle tornado has destoyed another hotel room. Molly, don't stand on the bed! |
A sampling of our snack stash. Mmmm, pop-tarts |
Day 31: We have come to a crossroads. The official Lewis and Clark mapped route goes through central Montana on MT-200 (which is more isolated with some stretches having 90 mi between towns and is also a little more hilly), or we could do our own route staying on US-2, which runs along the northern border of Montana, and then cut down to reconnect near Ft Benton MT in about a week. This route is called the High-Line which follows the Northern Pacific Railroad, is generally flatter, towns are slightly closer together and would shave about 100 mi off our overall route. It is also the official route for Adventure Cycling's Northern Tier bike route, but we didn't have their map, so we'd have to go off the road maps. We chose the high-line.
We rode about 50 mi to Glasgow MT, into a pretty stiff headwind and would get hit with a rainstorm for about 5 min every hour - some with pea-sized hail. Ouch. Sometimes when it got a little crazy I would laugh like a wild man, I guess it makes me feel alive.
Turns out that the Dakotas and Montana are getting about 300% more than their average rainfall, like a lot of the rest of the country. We sure picked the right Spring and Summer to do this trip. After talking to some folks in Glasgow about our trip they said we definitely made the right crossroads choice. MT200 is under 3 ft of water in sections and one entire 30 mi section is closed due to sink-holes, with no nearby detours. So all in all we've been pretty lucky even if it is a little colder and rainier than expected. We also passed through a lot of Missouri and Kansas about a week or so before a lot of those nasty storms hit. Here's hoping the relative good luck keeps up (and the snow is out of the Rockies by the time we get there!)
Big skies and fields of green and flowers. |
Hello neighbor! |
Day 32: That brings us to today. It's about time for our weekly day off and this will be the biggest town we will see for 4 days or so (it's a whopper - 3500 people). And there is a pretty bad headwind today which helps the justification. I hope everyone is happy and healthy, time for me to go eat third lunch.
Welp - I guess we'll just eat, sleep, and update the blog from the library! |